How to Grow Out a Mane & Tail

There are many ways to grow a mane and tail out, but your end results will be determined by genetics and nutrition.  It is impossible to have a thick, beautiful mane and tail on a horse that does not have the genetic potential to do so.  On the same note, a horse that has the potential for a great mane and tail will not be able to fulfill that potential without the proper nutrition.  It is a whole lot like the different hair types in humans, you end up with what your mother and father gave you, and your level of nutrition directly affects the quality of hair that you get to make use of.  So, before you begin to work to get that beautifully thick mane and tail, you need to take an honest look at what you have to begin with.  Make sure that all of your horse’s nutritional needs are being met, because no topical concoction will do near as much for the hair health and growth as good as nutrition will.  Now that we have the genetics and nutrition covered, we can move on to a couple of ways to help the hair grow out and to protect it from breakage.

One of the most popular methods for growing out the mane and tail is to braid them to help protect them from breakage.  The downfall of braiding is that if the braids are too wide or too tight, the braids will pull out or break the hairs when the horse lowers it’s head to eat.  That is the opposite of what you are wanting.  Another downfall is, if the braids are left in too long, they can actually become tangles up, and the process of getting them out can break or pull out the hair.  A reasonable time is two weeks maximum, anything longer and you risk them tangling up.  For the purpose of growing out a mane, I like to use braids that are about an inch wide at the top maximum.  I braid them loosely where they can expand some without pulling and breaking the hair.  I want the hair clean, conditioned, and dry.  Do not use anything that has silicone in it, like Show Sheen, on a regular basis.  To remove tangles or for a show, it is ok, but on a daily basis it will dry out and damage the hair.  I like coconut oil worked into the mane sparingly about once a week at most.  It will help moisturize the hair and make it manageable for braiding, but if you use too much it will make the hair too slick to braid.  I use electric tape to tie the braids at the bottom, it does not degrade in the sun and just fall off like the rubber bands and does not pull as much hair out either, when you remove them to take the braids out.  Since I am too lazy to remove the braids weekly for the oil treatment, I will simply work the oil into the mane bed.  When I take the braids out, I will let the hair rest for a day or two before braiding the hair back up.

As for braiding the tail, I do not personally like doing it, but some people do.  So, I will explain how to.  I want the tail clean, either wash it completely or do a vinegar wash, conditioned, and dry.  Work the coconut oil into it, again sparingly, too much will make it too slick to braid.  The braid needs to start at the end of the dock, and be braided loosely to the end.  There are many options when braiding tails; just braiding it without a bag, a braid in bag, a drop in bag, an old tube sock, or wrap the braid up in vet wrap or Sarhan Wrap  If you are doing this during the summer, you do need to provide something for the horse to use as a swatter, even if it is running hay string through the braid to kind of replace their tails while it is braided up.  You will also need to keep the horse sprayed with fly spray, and I also like providing them with a Rabon block as well.  Anything to help with reducing the fly population, right!?!?  The tail braid is easier and less time consuming to take down and put back up, so if I do braid I will do and re-do it weekly.  I will let the tail rest for a day or so between taking it down and putting it back up.

The other option is growing out manes and tails is not braiding them.  This is the easier option.  I have heard to never brush the mane or tail unless it is damp with some kind of conditioner, I have heard that it should only be brushed dry, I have heard to not brush it at all but to pick it out with your fingers.  I’m going to explain how I do my horses’ manes, everyday or every other day.  If I need to use a leave in conditioner, I will mix one part cheap human conditioner with one part water in a spray bottle, shake well and spray on as needed.  **Check the ingredients for silicone or any –cone and try to avoid them completely if possible.  If you can not, make sure that they are closer to the end of the list then the beginning, the farther they are down the list, the less is in the mix.  When I comb the mane or tail, I start at the bottom and work my way up gradually.  In general, I use a wide toothed comb, but I keep a rat tailed comb to help pick out tight knots, or any knots really.  I still do the weekly coconut oil treatments, but have found that after these treatments the hair does not tangle as much.  I have also noticed that damp hair tends to stretch rather than break, but healthy hair will not break as easily as dry hair anyway.

Regardless of what method you use to grow out your horse’s mane and tail, there are factors that will determine your end results.  The first factor is genetics.  Without the right genetics, no amount of nutrition and care will give you a thick, long mane and tail.  The second factor is nutrition.  Even with great genetics, without proper nutrition the hair will never live up to it’s potential.  If you take care of these two factors, you will find that the mane and tail will grow better, with less care required from you.  Proper nutrition can remedy a multitude of problems; the key is getting your horse on a balanced diet that meets your horse’s daily requirements.  Find what works best for you and your horse and stick to it.  I know that I have touched on genetics and nutrition twice in this article, and that is because I want you to keep it in mind as you read the article, and have it refreshed in your mind at the end of it.

How I Groom and Why.

My Personal Views on Grooming.


I know that some people don't set much stock in the benefits of grooming, aside from a shiny coat.  There are so many more benefits, besides removing dirt and producing a shine.  Grooming can relax a horse before and after a ride, it can teach you what is normal on your horse's body, it also provides quality bonding time for you and your horse, and it can prevent common skin disorders like rain rot.  Daily grooming is always best, if you can manage it, but I understand that with school and/or work schedules it is not always possible.

I like to get in a good thorough groom both before and after each ride.  I've known people that only simply brush off where the tack sits before a ride, and if time is constrained, I will do that, and also run my hands over the entire horse looking for any thing that is out of sorts.  The knowledge of your horse's body that can only be gained by daily touching is invaluable in my book.  That knowledge could save you valuable time in getting a diagnosis for a lameness or disease.  The sooner you know that something is wrong, the better.  I notice even the smallest difference in any thing on my horses.  As grooming often leads to horses pooping, it also lets you know if they have any stomach issues that need to be addressed.  I love my daily grooming sessions, they have taught me so much over the years.

The Tools that I use, and Why.


I personally use the Oster Equine Care Series collection http://www.osterpro.com/Products.aspx?id=equine&cid=960&scid=982.  It's expensive, I know, but well worth it from my point of view.  I've had the entire collection for over two years, and even with daily use they are still in good condition.  I also use them because they fit my hands nicely.  I have small hands, even for a woman.  I wear a women's Extra Small glove, and could probably wear some children's gloves if I ever tried to.  So, most brushes are difficult for me to hold on to for very long, without my hands giving out.

Why not use children's brushes?  Well, honestly most of the kid's brushes that I have come by were not the best quality, and I really don't want to replace brushes every time I turn around.  That would get expensive after a couple of times.  Those brushes are not made to last, they are made to be out grown, and as I am 35, I'm not really likely to grow any more.

To me, quality in my grooming equipment is just as important to me as quality of feed, hay, tack, or anything else where my horses are concerned.  Quality is very important because I don't want to keep replacing my stuff.  Cheaper is not always a better value, remember that the next time you have to buy something.

My absolute favorite tool, is however free.  And it will be free to you as well.  It's my hand.  I never groom with a tool in each hand.  I use the tool in the hand that is closest to the horse's head, so if I'm on the horse's right hand side, I use my right hand with the tool.  I use my bare hand to lay on the horse and stroke the horse.  I can do this without much thought to it, until I feel something that's not normal for the horse that I'm working on.  This is where the knowledge from daily grooming comes from.

My Order for Grooming.


I usually groom the manes and tails first.  Picking out any debris with my fingers if possible.  If you braid the horse's mane, check daily for any braids that have come undone, redo, and secure them.  I personally like to use electric tape to secure braids.  It will not degrade and fall off in the sun.  It doesn't really stick to the hair, so you have to make sure that it is wrapped around itself.  The down fall is you have to unwrap it instead of just sliding it off, but I've noticed less breakage from the tape compared to the bands.  When I braid manes, I use narrow braids that are very loose, with a leave-in conditioner at the base of the mane.  When braids are tight they pull hair out when the horse lowers it's head to graze.  If I have a mane that needs help laying down.  I will make braids about half the size of my normal braids, and braid it tight with a leave-in conditioner applied at the base of the mane only.  If I braid tails, I braid them loose as well, with a decent wisp at the end for the horse to use for swatting flies.  If I'm wanting to grow out my horse's tail I will keep it braided with a leave-in conditioner.

Next, I clean the horse's feet out.  I make sure to brush out their feet as well.  I also brush off any mud or dirt that may be stuck to the hoof wall and coronary band.  If the horse's feet needs any type of moisture product, like Hoof Flex or Rain Maker, I usually apply it now.  If the horse requires a black or clear polish, I will lightly sand the hoof wall with a fine grit sand paper to prepare the hoof for the polish, but I do not apply the polish until I am completely finished grooming the horse.  Even then I prefer the horse to be standing on concrete, where their first step does not produce dust, that will settle on and stick to the polish.  To avoid staining the concrete, whether at home or away, I take a piece of plywood about 1 square foot and place it under the foot being polished.  In a pinch the plywood can replace concrete, but you have to wait for the polish to dry before moving on to the next hoof.

Next, I start on the horse's coat, and this is where the majority of my grooming equipment comes in.  I start off with the Course Curry Comb.  http://www.osterpro.com/Product.aspx?id=equine&cid=960&scid=982&pid=6412  The nubs on it are thicker and more dense, but they are not hard by any means.  I always use small circular motions with my curry combs, and use my free hand to wipe away dust as it accumulates.  I try to always keep one hand in contact at all times, except when changing tools.  Some horses can not tolerate heavy pressure when being groomed, and this should be kept in mind.  Some horse's also prefer firmer pressure over lighter pressure.  I wish I could state a specific pressure range that I use, but I really can't as it varies greatly from horse to horse.  I constantly watch the horse's reaction and adjust accordingly.  I always start with the same curry comb regardless of how dirty or clean the horse is.  I find it gives the horse a massage, and loosens them up and relaxes them.  I start just behind the horse's head and gradually work my way down their neck to their shoulder, and down their leg to just above their knee before working my way back up the inside of their leg and up between the legs and onto that side of their chest, then back to their shoulder and onto their barrel.  I try to work their barrel evenly from their back down to under their belly, from front to back, then up onto the top of their rump.  I work gradually over the rump and down the leg to just above the hock, then to the inside of the leg and back up, coming out below the tail.  I really try to groom every inch of the horse that has any kind of muscle tissue on it with the Course Curry Comb.  Then repeat the process on the other side of the horse, you can do it i reverse order, if that is easier for you, on the other side.

My next brush is the Fine Curry Comb.  http://www.osterpro.com/Product.aspx?id=equine&cid=960&scid=982&pid=6413  Which is soft enough to use on the face and lower legs. With this one, I start on the horse's forehead and work my way around the side of their face, and then start in the same manner that I did before, with the exception that I do not stop at the knees and hocks.  I go completely down to the coronary band.  I actually massage the coronary band with the fine curry comb.

With most of the brushes, I use short, quick flicks.  The only brushes that I do not do this with are the face brushes and the finishing brush.  My paint mare that loves being groomed will not tolerate the flicks on the face, but she'll sort of lean into the strokes.  I work methodically through my brushes in order from the harder ones down to the finishing brush.

1. Stiff Grooming Brush http://www.osterpro.com/Product.aspx?id=equine&cid=960&scid=982&pid=6410
2. Medium Grooming Brush http://www.osterpro.com/Product.aspx?id=equine&cid=960&scid=982&pid=6420
3. Face Grooming Brush http://www.osterpro.com/Product.aspx?id=equine&cid=960&scid=982&pid=6419
4. Face Finishing Brush http://www.osterpro.com/Product.aspx?id=equine&cid=960&scid=982&pid=6418
5. Soft Finishing Brush http://www.osterpro.com/Product.aspx?id=equine&cid=960&scid=982&pid=6411

When I get done, I have nearly as much hair on me as the horse does, and probably more dirt!


Do All Horses Enjoy being Groomed?


My paint mare, Lady, really enjoys this grooming process; to the point of falling asleep, and laying down, if I don't wake her up by moving her occasionally.  My QH mare, Fancy, only tolerates being groomed, she will relax some, but not anything that even resembles enjoying it.  As soon as I let her loose, she takes off like, "Finally!"  My horses could not be more different from each other, personality wise.  Some horses really enjoy it where others only seem to tolerate it because they have no other choice in the matter, especially my horses.  Some of the horses that merely tolerate it at first will learn to relax and enjoy it.  Fancy would often try to bite when I first got her a little over a year ago.  Now, she stands quietly and some what relaxes for grooming.  She is slowly coming around.

Now, there are some very sensitive horses that may very well never fully enjoy being groomed.  Even with the lightest pressure that you can muster, that will still be too much and uncomfortable for these horses.  You may can gradually desensitize these horses, but I can not attest to this because I've never owned or trained a horse that was that sensitive.  For these horses, I would imagine that grooming done incorrectly is very stressing, and probably not the best bonding arrangement.  Always pay attention to what the horse is telling you and adjust accordingly.

Why I Place So Much Importance on Grooming.


I want to know every inch of my horse from the tip of their nose to the end of their tail, and from the top of their back to the bottom of their feet.  I want to know how it normally feels by touch and memory.  That way, if something feels different I know it, the instant my hand hits it.  Actually putting your hands on your horse daily is the only way to get this knowledge.  This is one of the reasons that I thoroughly groom before and after a ride or any type of use.  I groom after the horse is completely cooled down, again feeling for any knots or warmness that was not there before the work.  It's the best way that I know of to find any problems early, and it begins and ends your day on a positive, relaxing note for most horses.

Do You have to Use the Same Tools that I Do?


Absolutely.  Not!  You can use what ever tools you currently have.  I would suggest not using one of the metal curry combs or shedding blades though.  If you don't know why, simply rub it against your arm, even with light pressure either one is uncomfortable.  With any kind of pressure they down right hurt.  The metal curry combs are great for removing hair from your brushes though, a courser rubber curry comb will also work well for that.

How Long Does this Take?


I can usually groom a horse like this in about 30 minutes or so, depending on the horse's size.  I can also stretch it out to much longer if I've had a bad day, and I am very stressed.  I tend to pour all of my emotions into grooming, that way I am stress free and relaxed when it's time for training.  I can do it quicker than the 30 minutes if I have to, but I prefer not to because I've found that the horse does not enjoy it as much, and if the horse is not enjoying it, what's the point.  Grooming should be enjoyable for both of you, and when it's rushed, it's not enjoyable by either of you.

What About a Shiny Coat?


This grooming routine works great for me in terms of getting my horses nice and shiny.  With that being said, a grooming routine will only get you so far where a gleaming coat is concerned.  Nutrition plays a huge roll in how shiny you can get your horse.

No matter how much elbow grease you put into your horse's appearance, without proper nutrition, it will never shine to it's true potential.  I keep my horses in a pasture 24/7, and feed them Purina's Omolene 200 http://horse.purinamills.com/products/omolene/ECMD2-0032696.aspx, though I'm thinking about switching to the Omolene 400 http://horse.purinamills.com/products/omolene/ECMD2-0032698.aspx.  Both are complete, balanced feeds, but the 400 has sources of roughage in it as well.  I do not feed any where near the recommended amount to my horses during the summer.  Actually, according to Purina's website,  during the summer I should be feeding one of their Ration Balancers, http://horse.purinamills.com/products/naturesessentials/ECMD2-0032703.aspx or http://horse.purinamills.com/products/naturesessentials/ECMD2-0032704.aspx but I stick with the Omolene 200 because some how it keeps my horses from sunburning and bleaching out.  Pink noses are safe and my horses end the summer the same color as they started it.  Lady does not sunburn at all, and she is mainly white.  Between nutrition and grooming, both of my horses shine, that is until they both go roll in the pond, then they are just muddy again.  The biggest reason that I like the Omolene line of feeds is because they are packed with all of the vitamins and minerals that horses need on a daily basis, which means I don't have to buy any additional supplements to provide the vitamins and minerals.  Getting into this subject is an entirely different subject, so I'll end with this.  Offer your horse the best nutrition that you have available to you, in your area.